Steam graveyard where the dead came back to life

I WASN’T to know it at the time, but when I travelled by train for my first day at secondary school in September 1968, I had missed the official end of steam on British Railways by only a matter of weeks.

Within days, someone had introduced me to my first Ian Allan “combined volume” listing all Britain’s locomotives and other motive power, but the numbers we so avidly jotted down as we waited on the platform at South Croydon station were of diesels and electric multiple units, not steam engines.

END OF THE LINE: condemned engines at Barry scrapyard PICTURE: Mike Peart

The last timetabled steam-hauled passenger service had run from Preston to Liverpool on August 3 that year. A week later a round-trip railtour from Liverpool Lime Street to Manchester Victoria and Carlisle would become the last BR steam-hauled mainline train, and on August 12 a steam ban was introduced on British Railways, marking a turning point in the history of rail travel in Britain.

But you can’t miss something you’ve never known, and in reality the end of steam had been in progress for years, ever since the sweeping 1954 modernisation plan paved the way for the transition to diesel and electric traction.

There were more than 16,000 steam engines on the railways in the mid-1950s but the numbers began dropping rapidly once the controversial Beeching cuts started to bite in the mid-1960s.

HERITAGE RAILWAY: Chinnor station closed in 1957

The strive for greater economic efficiency envisaged thousands of stations closing, along with some 5,000 miles of track, almost a third of the network.

Even though the last steam train to be built in Britain only emerged from Swindon Works in 1960, within a few years thousands were being withdrawn and sent to breakers’ yards around the country.

All of which meant that by the time we schoolboys were standing on freezing platforms watching the trains go by, steam was long gone. The last few dozen steam engines on the Southern Region had disappeared by the end of 1966. Western Region steam had finished the year before.

SOLD FOR SCRAP: 34010 Sidmouth at Barry PICTURE: Locomotive Geek/Paul Cooper

That meant large numbers of condemned locomotives arriving at the major BR works for cutting up, and as the pace of withdrawals swamped the storage space at Swindon and Derby, lines of engines began to appear in any available sidings or closed branch lines.

Clearing the backlog meant putting the dismantling of hundreds of locomotives out to tender with private scrapyards, including one which would become famous with railway enthusiasts and preservationists up and down the country – Woodham Brothers of Barry.

In 1959, Dai Woodham spent time at Swindon Works learning how to scrap a steam locomotive, and in March of that year the first batch of Great Western Railway engines was despatched to his sidings in South Wales.

FAMOUS: Woodham Brothers’ scrapyard PICTURE: Locomotive Geek

But if most of Britain’s steam locomotives were to suffer an ignominious end in some busy scrapyard, this was one place which did not rush to cut up the steam engines it acquired.

The family scrapyard had a healthy business buying and scrapping withdrawn brake vans and wagons, but although it also acquired almost 300 steam locomotives for scrap, only a small proportion of them were ever cut up.

In the early years many engines were dismantled soon after arrival, but as the numbers of new arrivals increased, additional storage was found and the queues of rusting hulks in the sidings beside the oil terminal began to grow.

Woodhams began to buy Southern Region engines from mid-1964 and in 1965 no fewer than 65 locomotives arrived at the scrapyard, but by the autumn of that year cutting virtually ceased as the scrapmen concentrated instead on breaking up yet more freight wagons and brake vans.

NO RUSH: from 1965 few engines were cut up PICTURE: Locomotive Geek/Tom Curtis

Dai Woodham continued to purchase locomotives until the end of steam in 1968 with many of the later deliveries being of the BR Standard designs. But of almost 300 engines purchased between 1959 and 1968, more than 200 remained towards the end of 1968, when enthusiasts began to realise that Barry might be the only remaining source of locomotives which could be bought for preservation.

Only one engine was saved from Barry in 1968 and it was 1970 before the next locomotive was moved. But by the mid-1970s a mass exodus had begun, despite the poor condition of many of the rusting hulks, stripped of their brasses, copper pipes and whistles.

My own pilgrimage to Barry took place on November 2, 1973. By that stage 44 engines had been rescued, including the Great Western 2-8-0 tank engine 5239 that we would encounter many years later on the Dartmouth Steam Railway in Paignton.

REUNION: GWR 5239 in Paignton

Lovingly restored in the striking dark green livery of the Great Western Railway, it was hard to believe that this was the same engine we had seen rusting in the sidings at Barry, where it had languished for 10 years before being rescued in the summer of 1973.

Rescuing those rusting hulks is a truly monumental task that might typically take 10 years or even double that, depending on funding, volunteer availability and the locomotive’s condition.

RESPLENDENT: 5239 in original GWR livery

Rescuing those rusting hulks is a truly monumental task that might typically take 10 years or even double that, depending on funding, volunteer availability and the locomotive’s condition.

Another tank engine which suffered a much longer stay at Barry was 2-6-2T 5526, which arrived in November 1962 and wasn’t liberated until 22 years later in July 1985, the 166th loco to be saved from the yard.

A stalwart of the South Devon Railway, the ‘Small Prairie’ tank has clocked up more than a million miles in service and popped up on different preserved lines around the country, from Swanage in Dorset to Kent and Oxfordshire, where I found her visiting the Chinnor and Princes Risborough line.

LIBERATED: GWR 5526 at Chinnor

Built in 1928 at the GWR’s Swindon works, the engine saw service all over the West Country before it was withdrawn. Restoration work started in 1985 but the engine has only been fully back in service since 2003.

Back in Barry, the departures continued. Unbelievably, many of the dozens of rusting engines we saw there on a rainy November day in 1973 would be rescued as the years went past, a vivid reminder of just how important a role was played in the story of railway preservation by David Lloyd Victor Woodham MBE, BEM, otherwise known as “Dai”.

He died in 1994 but his legacy lives on in the hundreds of steam engines rescued for posterity from what could have been their final resting place, rusting away in the sidings down by Barry Docks.

Fairground favourites thrill the crowds

IT’S BEEN a pretty special bank holiday weekend at Pinkneys Green for Joby Carter and his family.

Here, to the sound of fireworks, steam engines and fairground organs, Carters Steam Fair has been celebrating its 40th visit to a favourite local venue in grand style.

The largest travelling vintage funfair in the world, the steam fair has delighted generations of local youngsters with lovingly restored rides dating from the 19th century to the 1960s.

And after being forced off the road by the pandemic, as we reported last year, the fair is back on the road for 2021, delighting families at a series of local venues until mid-October.

The vintage rides have featured in films ranging from Paddington 2 to Rocketman, and as dusk falls on Pinkneys Green, the screams of delight are a testimony to the enduring appeal of the fair, which offers rides suitable for toddlers, teenagers and the young at heart.

Set against a backdrop of flashing lights and pounding pistons, the fair provides visitors young and old with a sensory overload, as the scent of hot doughnuts mingles with the oil and steam of machines which are a triumph of mechanical engineering.

Part of the fair’s popularity lies in the extraordinary attention to detail with which vintage rides have been restored, from the precision engineering required to maintain moving parts to the artwork which has all been done by hand.

Says Joby: “I encourage anyone visiting to take a close look at the lettering and artwork at the fair. It has all been done by hand using traditional signwriting skills and techniques – no computers or fancy software programmes!

“Stand next to our brightly coloured trucks with huge lettering over 1 meter high and see if you can figure out how we manage to paint it all by hand!”

It was back in the late 1970s that show promoters John and Anna Carter first started their collection by buying a set of 1890s Jubilee Steam Gallopers that they could take to steam rallies and fairs.

As their passion for vintage fairgrounds grew, the Carters added more rides to their collection, with Anna’s artistic talents in restoring rides to their former glory helping to establish the fair’s specialism in vintage rides.

Joby was just a child at the time but soon followed in their footsteps. Now, with more than 20 years’ of signwriting experience, he even ended up teaching creative online courses on lettering and fairground art which helped the fair to survive a year of lockdown.

Those iconic gallopers are still going strong too, most of the horses having been carved from wood by Andersons of Bristol around 1910 and all subtly different from one another.

They are all named after friends and family on the fair, and the 46-key Gavioli organ bought from Roger Daltrey in 1979 helps to provide that unmistakeable fairground atmosphere.

Being based in Maidenhead, the Berkshire family has a particular affection for the Pinkneys Green venue where they have worked for four decades. But several other local favourites are on their 2021 itinerary too, including Hemel Hempstead, Holyport Green and Reading.

The same loving attention to detail is visible everywhere at the fairground, from the steam-driven yachts of the 1920s to a 1910 roundabout featuring an eclectic collection of creatures from running cockerels to hungry-looking pigs.

Restoring the worn-out 1960s dodgems cars has been a long labour of love for Joby and his team: a restoration process that took 25 years of on-and-off work, with a few finished just in time for them to enjoy a moment of Hollywood fame with the launch of the award-winning movie Rocketman about the life of Elton John.

From a coconut shy to duck- and fish-hooking games and test-your-strength “strikers”, the funfair has all the traditional elements of a country fair that would have delighted our Victorian and Edwardian ancestors and it provides fascinating insights into British social history.

“When a ride comes into our care, we research as much as we can and try to trace its ancestry,” says Joby. “If we’re lucky, we can even find photos of it from its heyday.”

Traditionally everything in the fair is moved around the country using vintage heavy lorries and magnificent showman’s living wagons. Like the rides, each of the fleet of lorries, some dating from the 40s, 50s and 60s, has been lovingly restored to its former glory and repainted in the distinctive red Carters livery.

Every bit as impressive are the beautifully decorated living wagons with cut-glass windows, lace curtains and premium wood and veneer inside, each with their own story to tell and many previously owned by well-known showmen or circus owners.

More information about the fair’s history and the background to individual rides, sideshows and vehicles can be found on their website. Details of Joby’s online signwriting courses can be found here. The fair moves to Hemel Hempstead for the next two weekends and future venues can be found here.

Postcard from . . . Bo’ness

IT’S HARD to think of a less likely tourist attraction that the UK’s second oldest oil refinery, at Grangemouth.

But if you drive past the gas flares and cooling towers for a few minutes, the detour off the busy M9 motorway from Edinburgh to Stirling will take you to a quite extraordinary reminder of a golden age of steam.

For this is the home of the Bo’ness and Kinneil Railway, a five-mile working heritage railway and home to Scotland’s largest railway museum.

BONESS

The view from the station platform – the main station at Bo’ness was actually relocated from Wormit, at the south end of the Tay Bridge – could hardly be more authentic, although the 0-6-0 tank engine decked out in British Railways black is also “in disguise”.

Despite the BR livery, this is not the former LNER Class J94 engine which once bore that number, but a lookalike – an engine once owned by the National Coal Board which was built by W G Bagnall in 1945 and acquired from the NCB’s Comrie Colliery in Fife.

In its gleaming BR livery it certainly looks the part, though, and it’s only one of a large selection of steam and diesel engines to be found here.

Another surprise is the surprisingly rural atmosphere of the route. Despite the proximity of heavy industry, the line takes passengers to a local nature reserve, and you can always walk back along the coast or disembark at another rural station that has been a favourite with film-makers.

The museum across the footbridge at Bo’ness is open seven days a week until October 28 from 11am-4.30pm and boasts three large buildings full of memorabilia – from full size locomotives to old-fashioned railway signs which once adorned the walls of busy railway stations across the country.

For full details of the railway, see the link above – and more information about the Scottish Railway Preservation Society can be found here.