Take a horse-drawn trip down memory lane

IT’S hard to imagine the problems of getting around the Chilterns before the age of motorised transport and properly surfaced roads.

And it’s a thought that often comes to mind a lot around Holtspur and Beaconsfield, for a variety of reasons.

Not least it’s the awareness that transport has played such a seminal role in the growth and prosperity of the town across the centuries, and how much has changed since the heyday of horse-drawn travel.

HISTORY LESSON: the Royal Saracen’s Head in Beaconsfield

Today, the constant thrum of traffic barrelling along the nearby motorway and clogging the other main local arteries is a reminder of just how much of a transport hub this town has always been.

But back in the 17th century it must have been an innkeeper’s dream. Having grown up around the crossing between the London to Oxford and Windsor to Aylesbury roads, as stagecoach traffic expanded, the town found itself perfectly placed for overnight stops.

Towards the end of the 18th century coaches were heading through to Oxford and beyond: Woodstock, Banbury, Bicester, Cheltenham, Gloucester and Shrewsbury.

CROSSROADS: the former White Hart in Beaconsfield

We’ve written about the heyday of stagecoach travel before, of course, as well as the perils of highwaymen across the region.

But we have short memories, it seems. Our familiarity with horses spans so many centuries, yet for modern generations the thought of life before the motor car is hard to even visualise.

Glimpses into past times like period dramas on television may remind us of that lost reality, but even faced with scenes from Downton Abbey or a Jane Austen film, we may still struggle to grasp what it actually felt like to rely on horses for so many different purposes.

Horses had been used in transport and battle by the end of the Iron Age, and Caesar encountered thousands of war chariots when he invaded in 55BC. They would remain the primary source of power for agriculture, mining, transport and warfare until the arrival of the steam engine hundreds of years later.

Nowhere would that have been more evident than around these parts, but we tend to forget that our ancestors needed to travel too, and for centuries that would have involved horses.

LONG HISTORY: the humble horse

There are dozens of different names for horse-drawn carriages, from carts and wagons to broughams, hansom cabs, charabancs and landaus. And there are dozens of jobs that were once reliant on horse-drawn travel too: not just the riders and grooms, but the blacksmiths, wheelwrights and coachmakers, farriers and saddlers.

Long into the railway era horses were still required to pull trolleys and omnibuses, carriages, delivery carts and brewery wagons.

And right up to the end of the 19th century, families around the world were dependent on the horse, with cities dominated by thousands of horse-drawn vehicles, as well as being swamped in urine and manure.

CRUCIAL ROLE: horses were integral to the economy

A glance through some old pictures of this part of the Chilterns at the dawn of the 20th century proves the point.

The Bourne End Residents Association published a collection of old photographs from their archives in 1985 called The Way It Was, with views of the parishes of Wooburn, Little Marlow and Hedsor.

From the baker’s cart to the doctor’s carriage or brewer’s dray, the years at the start of the 20th century show the last years of horse-drawn traffic before cars really start to take a hold.

LONELY BYWAY: a flashback in time

Even today it’s possible to find deserted byways across the Chilterns where it would not feel out of place to see a pony and trap appearing round the bend.

But of course the transport revolution was impossible to resist, on both sides of the Atlantic, and when Henry Ford revolutionised the cost of motoring in 1913 with the Model T, there was no going back.

When madcap motorist Toad of Toad Hall burst into our imaginations in 1908 with the publication of The Wind In The Willows, it was clear that cars were here to stay.

TRANSPORT REVOLUTION: roads were of poor quality

The mass production of automobiles gave the middle classes as well as the wealthy the opportunity to savour the appeal the open road, even if there were few adequate roads on which to drive them.

Looking at the gruelling 1 in 10 gradients that characterise the narrow roads leading down into the Wye Valley from Flackwell Heath, Hedsor and Cliveden, it’s hard to imagine a horse showing much enthusiasm at the prospect of such an ascent, however light their load.

Perhaps it would look like the old nag portrayed by Thomas Hardy in the opening pages of The Woodlanders, “whose hair was of the roughness and colour of heather, whose leg-joints, shoulders and hoofs were distorted by harness and drudgery from colthood”.

HORSE SENSE: modern horses are well cared for PICTURE: Lesley Tilson

But we also know that even ancient peoples took good care of their horses and saw them as prized and valuable assets.

Whatever the reality of life on the backroads of Buckinghamshire at the tail end of the 19th century, we can guess such journeys were time-consuming and often far from comfortable, if a lot less unsafe than they were in the age of marauding highwaymen.

But even today on those Chilterns back roads, it’s not hard to imagine the clip-clop of hooves taking the path in a previous century during the age before the motor car where horses really did reign supreme.

ATMOSPHERIC: a farm path near Hedgerley

Melissa Harrison captures the apparent immutability of the horse-drawn era in her evocative novel All Among The Barley when her youthful narrator writes:

“We would bring each golden field home in the wagon and I would ride atop the last one bearing a green bough like Demeter, in triumph, Moses and Malachi ringing their harness bells proudly as they hauled the final load home.

“Then the rick-yard would be full of wheat and barley, Father would be himself again and we would sit down all together for a harvest meal. In autumn we would plough and harrow and drill once more, and when the steam tackle came we would thresh, and afterwards sell the piles of bright grain.

“No more harm would ever come to us, and so it would go on forever, world without end: the elms always sheltering our old farmhouse, the church looking out over the fields. For the fields were eternal, our life the only way of things, and I would do whatever was required of me to protect it. How could it be otherwise?”

When robbers ruled the lawless roads

THE evening traffic is building up on the A40 at Gerrards Cross and further along the road Beaconsfield is getting busy again.

Lockdown may not quite be a thing of the past, but there’s plenty of hubbub ahead of the weekend when restrictions are finally being further relaxed.

Funny thing is, this is a road that’s been busy for centuries. It’s just hard to visualise what it must have been when the route was bustling with stagecoaches, carts and wagons.

These days we jump in our cars so casually for a trip to the shops – but getting about wasn’t so easy or comfortable in the days of horse-drawn transport.

Looking out from the trees on Gerrards Cross common on a sunny day, it’s hard to conceive that highwaymen once hid here, preying on stagecoaches heading to and from Beaconsfield’s busy Old Town.

STAND AND DELIVER!: highwaymen once hid out on Gerrards Cross common preying on stagecoaches passing to and from Beaconsfield Old Town

It’s only when we watch a period drama that we perhaps think what life must have been like from the 17th century onwards, when stagecoach services were established and coaching inns along main routes like this were bustling with life.

Beaconsfield and High Wycombe, Tring, Amersham and Aylesbury were all thriving hubs of the stagecoach age, with passengers from London heading out through Uxbridge to Oxford, Banbury and beyond – as far as Worcester, Shrewsbury and Wales.

TRAVELLERS’ REST: the White Hart was one of the Beaconsfield’s smaller coaching inns

In the heyday of coach services as many as 20 might come by here in a day – providing rich pickings for highwaymen along the route and good business for the coaching inns of Beaconsfield like the White Hart and Saracen’s Head.

Standing in the woods at Gerrards Cross common, it’s hard to image what a scary journey this would have been in centuries past, as Clare Bull recalls in her article for the Beaconsfield & District Historical Society.

“Despite the advent of the ‘flying coach’ most travellers chose to break their journey by staying in one of the many coaching inns in Beaconsfield.

PLACE OF SAFETY: the Saracen’s Head, where coaches stopped to change horses

“Travellers must have been glad to reach a place of safety, as well as comfort. Whether coming from London or Oxford they had to get here through some of the most notorious danger-spots in this country.

“On the London side, Gerrards Cross Common was one of the highwaymen’s favourite haunts.

“From Oxford, the steep climb out of the marshes of the Wye Valley up the hill to Holtspur – much steeper then than now and badly surfaced – presented ideal conditions for attacks on slow-moving coaches with tired horses.

“The wood through which the road passes just before reaching Holtspur is still known as Cut-Throat Wood, and The King’s Head at Holtspur had a reputation as one of the marauders’ favourite haunts.”

DANGEROUS DETOUR: a quiet lane around Holtspur

It’s odd how we tend to harbour romantic illusions about these criminals – many of them vicious thugs whose exploits became the stuff of legend for later generations in the same way that Robin Hood became a folk hero.

Louise Allen, author of the 2014 book Stagecoach Travel, might have a vested interest to see the best in such figures as Dick Turpin and the dashing Frenchman Claude Duval, given that two of her ancestors were hanged at Aylesbury for highway robbery in the first half of the 18th century.

But she is unequivocal about her own antecdedents: “So, were these two handsome masked men on flashy black stallions, setting ladies’ hearts a flutter as they relieved the gentlemen of their coin? I very much doubt it – from what I can establish of these two, and their circumstances, they were probably an unpleasant pair of muggers out for what they could get and unscrupulous about how they got it. ”

GENTLEMAN OF THE ROAD?: English artist William Powell Frith (1819-1909) depicts a group of highwaymen led by Claude Duval holding up the carriage of Lady Aurora Sydney on a heathland road where a young woman is made to dance with her captor PICTURE: Manchester Art Gallery

Although it seems likely that even the famous Dick Turpin was a violent thug who tortured victims and inn keepers, Victorian readers loved the tales of daring raids and escapes, and were delighted by the legend of how Claude Duval was said to have gallantly spared the possessions of any pretty lady prepared to dance with him. He was immortalised in a painting by Frith, but it didn’t stop him being hanged at Tyburn in January 1670, aged 27.

Clare Bull has colourful tales to tell of Duval’s fair day exploits in Beaconsfield and he certainly had his female admirers. His epitaph begins: “Here lies Du Vall: Reder, if male thou art, Look to thy purse: if Female to thy heart. Much havoc has he made of both: for all Men he made to stand, and women he made to fall.

With hundreds of coaches heading out of London for destinations all over the UK and more than 100 coaching inns in the capital itself, it’s not surprising that the lawless roads outside the city were tempting places for robbers.

RICH PICKINGS: La Belle Sauvage Inn, Ludgate Hill by J C Maggs, one of dozens of busy coaching inns in the capital. Coaches left from here to destinations all over the country, including Windsor and Maidenhead PICTURE: The British Postal Museum & Archive

On heaths and commons and in woods and forests from Hounslow Heath to Windsor Forest, there was good reason for wealthy visitors and courtiers to worry; lurking in the thick undergrowth of Maidenhead Thicket or Windsor Forest might be the worst of their nightmares – including the most famous highwayman of all, Dick Turpin.

Maidenhead was a busy coaching stop and the Bath Road to Reading was one of the busiest roads in the country, with many escape routes through the Thicket, where highwaymen flourished until the early 1800s.

Many hostelries were associated with the most prominent rogues of the period, including the Dew Drop Inn in Burchett’s Green, which was said to have had an underground room where Turpin would hide his horse Black Bess in an emergency.

UNDERGROUND ROOM?: the Dew Drop Inn at Burchett’s Green

He was also rumoured to have used the Olde Swan Inn at Woughton-on-the-Green as a base, and legend links him with the George in Wallingford and Hind’s Head in Bracknell too. His ghost is said to haunt the roadside hamlet of Stubbings (while Duval is said to haunt the Holt Hotel at Steeple Ashton in Oxfordshire).

But even Turpin was finally caught: he was imprisoned in York and was later hanged and buried there in 1739.

VULNERABLE VISITORS: John Charles Maggs’ portrait of The Old White Hart, one of at least eight coaching inns in Bishopsgate which provided rooms and board for wealthy guests arriving in the capital or returning to the country. PICTURE: The British Postal Museum & Archive

With no national police force to clamp down on robberies, by 1713 it was said that ‘almost every coach running between London and Oxford was robbed’. The same year saw the hanging of the notorious Jack Shrimpton from Penn while another notorious gang of three brothers from Burford also suffered gruesome deaths – and may even have been the original “Tom, Dick and Harry” of the popular saying.

Tom and Harry Dunsdon were hanged at Gloucester in 1784 and their bodies brought back to Shipton-under-Wychwood and gibbeted from an oak tree. Dick Dunsdon is thought to have bled to death after his brothers had to cut off one of his arms to free his hand which became trapped in a bungled burglary.

The last man to be condemned to death for highway robbery locally was tried in 1800 for holding up a coach at Beaconsfield and stealing thirty shillings; he was hanged at Gallows Road, Aylesbury.

It was the end of an era; turnpike roads and toll houses had already curtailed the activities of the highwaymen and soon railways would make travel around Britain faster, more comfortable and a great deal safer.

Never again would worried passengers have troubled nightmares about being made to “stand and deliver” – or forced to dance at the roadside with a dashing French highwayman!